New Two-way Communication Blog!

Greetings to all of my many faithful readers!  Welcome to my new blog site, on which you can post comments relating to model engines, share your experiences, post images and otherwise participate directly in the recording and preservation of model engine history and classic model engines in general.

A few ground rules to gt things going ………….first, I will not guarantee to respond to all comments posted, since there frankly aren’t enough hours in the day! I’ve said this before elsewhere, and nothing’s changed. What I will guarantee is that I will read all comments received and will respond if the comment warrants it and if time permits. I will also guarantee that any comments which are factored into my articles will be duly credited, with my very sincere thanks.

My only request to you is that you restrict your use of this site to matters relating to model engines, rather than treating it as a general chat room.

I sincerely hope that this site will end the frustration that some of you have felt at not being able to contact me directly.  Welcome to the fold!!


Adrian the Engine Guy

28 thoughts on “New Two-way Communication Blog!

  1. Adrian
    I don’t know how you do this – especially with your exceptionally wide range of outside activities. WOW!
    My most recent activities include researching spark ignition coils and condensers from the long gone pre-1950 era. Oddly, this can also include a few later items where coils were made for inclusion with reproduction engines (see Dunham Engineering) made long after the “true” ignition era.
    Coils for around the world present interesting challenges. Including one made in Canada (the other side from you) in Keenie coil made in Toronto. Do you have any non USA made coils?

  2. Hi Adrian,
    Thanks for including the picture of the miles engine in your editorial. I am in the process of rebuilding one that was damaged with a Quebec wrench (lol) The exhaust cage and the cylinder port was broken. Every part of this engine was seized except for the head. I had no idea of what it was as there were no markings of any kind. I was forwarded your website and really enjoyed it. Now I just need to figure out how to register.
    Con, Napanee, ON.

  3. Hi Adrian,
    I was looking at your gallery of engines. If it is your intention to get pictures of as many antiques as possible, I can send some as I have a fairly large collection.

    1. Thanks for the offer, Con! The engines featured in the Gallery are those regarding which comprehensive information is available either on my own web-site or on the late and greatly missed Ron Chernich’s now-frozen “Model Engine News” site. I plan to restrict it to that group of engines, which is of course continuing to expand each month. That said, I don’t have examples of every member of every range which is included! I always welcome additional images of models in a given range for which I do not have images. Serial numbers are of particular interest in establishing production figures. Any such information will always be gratefully received!

  4. I have just acquired a Ueda .61 (not so common this side of the pond) and found your blog covering the company history. Absolutely great! Covered all I needed to know. My example has suffered the ministrations of a gorilla having had most of the side cooling fins hacked off so if anyone has a complete .61 crankcase they would like to get rid of I would be interested. There should also be a law passed which makes the application of Mole grips to any part of an engine a hanging offence. Many thanks for your excellent blogs – they answer many of the questions that lurk in my rapidly ageing brain.

  5. Adrian, is it ok for me to quote a few lines from your KO engine treatise in an eBay ad. I would be pleased to give credit and a link to your web site.



    1. Go right ahead, LeRoy! That’s a major reason why I set up this site – a well-informed buyer/seller community is beneficial to all parties. I wish that more people would quote my articles or provide links to them when selling on eBay! I really appreciate your willingness to credit your source and/or provide a link. Good luck!!

    1. Hi, Adrian.
      I enjoy your website!
      RE: your recently quoted article on DII quoted on RCUniverse, Barton or another site: I’d read it here originally. Great information!

      May I remind of Specific gravity effects. (Ether has a much lower “SG” than water.) This is partially covered in your article’s percentages calculations.

      John Deere starting ether lists content as 7 ounces of di-ethyl ether, not 7 fluid ounces. If the ether’s SG is around 0.7 (i.e., a volume of ether weighs 7/10ths times as much as the same volume of water.)

      Thus, it will take about (almost exactly!) 10 FLUID OUNCES of ether to weigh 7 OUNCES (avoirdupois.) Most fuel sellers I’ve contacted claim, or admit, mixing their fuels by volume, not by weight. It seems a common convention.

      When I began home brewing several years back, I’d tried likely the same THRUST starting fluid as you mentioned, unless as sold in the USA it’s different from that sold in your part of Canada.
      …A company rep admitted the product’s volatiles were about 75% N-Heptane/ 25% di-ethyl or other ether. (Different characteristics for our uses!)
      … My experience with THRUST-based home-brew was more challenging starting, harder comp needed less confident settings for “longish” runs. Not very reliable for consistent flights. BTW I fly CL stunt/sport stunt. Normal flights last 6 to 8 minutes. NOT a 60 second highest power/economy and instant restart CL racing situation.

      My blends by SG volumes are much more consistent and reliable, so far. I use auto Diesel #2 and castor, with about 1% to 1.5% AMSOIL DII depending on time of year.

      1. Thanks for that, Lou! I actually do blend by volume, and have been quite happy with the results. The JD starting fluid that we get here in Canada seems to perform pretty much like straight ether. Our cans say “minimum 80% ether”, but admittedly don’t say if that’s by weight or by volume. I just use it straight by volume, and have been quite happy with the results. Good point, though!

  6. Any chance you, or anyone has a wiring diagram for the Hope Super 60 ignition engine.
    The boat I have has been taken apart and I have no idea how to rewire it. It apparently had 4 size batteries for power.

  7. Hi there,
    Any chance of identificaton of this diesel engine, supposedly of Yugoslav origin, early 1950s. Its not from AERO range but could be from OSKAR brand.
    Thanx and Regards,

    1. It’s a new one on me, Supercuber, but I’ll add it to the Wotizit page and see if we can get an identification from someone. Thanks for the submission!



  8. Check out the article on “How To Wire Up a Sparkie” on Ron Chernich’s “Model Engine News” (MEN) web-site. That should answer your questions! I’ll include a link in next month’s Editorial.



  9. Hi, Adrian, I was so pleased to find your report on the Mills Diesel.

    I have a Mills S75 which I acquired about 1960 in a swap for an OS 15 Max 2.
    The serial number is 43 811. Going by your information, I expect it would have been made early 50s. It had a useless home made con rod in it. I purchased a new con rod for it from a local hobby shop at Woolloongabba, Brisbane. This con rod fitted in the ends ok but was too long. I suspect it was for the Mills 1.3. It measures close to 22 mm centres. I got the motor to run by packing the cylinder with a 1mm thick gasket. This meant that about half the exhaust ports were blocked, but it ran very well but a bit down in power. I used it in free flight models. I recently got it out, freed it up, but could not get a new gasket right.
    A friend made me a new con rod using a SS kntting needle. The new length was calculated to be aprox. 1.4 mm shorter, and brings the top of the piston level with the bottom of the ports at BDC. It is an excellent engine, and I have been using it again but with rudder control to reduce the risk of losing it.

    I also have another Mills 75 dug up in a rubbish heap around 1960s. The crank case is very corroded. The serial code appears to be 72 694, but I am not sure. The only difference to the other motor appears to be the size of the thread on the fuel needle , being a smaller 8 BA whereas the the thread on my good engine appears to be 6 BA. That is another story.

    Kind regards

    Athol Lewin

    1. It’s not there because I never wrote it! Unfortunately Ron Chernich passed away before we got it started, and I’ve just never got back to it. Perhaps I will someday!



  10. Hi
    I have an A-M 10 & 15 I would like to fly and am concerned about a source for a spare pro[p nut or spinner. I could make them myself if I knew the size and where to get a tap.

  11. Hi Adrian
    I need a little help. I have aquired an Elfin 149 and although all seems ok and it runs on the test bench , the barrel is loose! could you kindly give me advice and what tools are needed to tighten this.

    Many thanks


  12. Hello Mr Duncan,
    I read on the editorial that the article on the Ken 61 engine is completed, I am really happy, as I am very interesting in this engine. I bought a nice example of Ken from Tim Dannels, it is missing the needle valve. Can you help me with drawing, or some friend can get me the spare part? in the meantime I’m waiting for the article…Thank you very much, best regards
    Ernesto Pizzi, Messina, Italy

  13. Have tried to find your “Gallery” to no avail. Am I looking in the wrong place? Im looking for your article on the Hope Super 60.

    1. I don’t understand your difficulty, Don. Go to my main website at, click on the Gallery button on the top toolbar, scroll down to the Hope Super 60 image, click on that entry and look in the text for a direct link to the article. Easy as pie!



  14. Hello Adrian – I would like to purchase the DC Wildcat from the collection of Paul Rossiter, however I can’t find a way to contact you about this. I would also like to register on your site but one of the required fields only has the option of Canada or the USA and I live in the UK. What do I do?

    Regards, Martin

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *