Parts Wanted

I’ve started this new thread to assist people needing parts for a specific engine to let others know.  I’ll lead off – I could use a timer assembly for a Lucas & Smith Contestor D-60-R.


48 thoughts on “Parts Wanted

    1. Hi Tom, I too have managed to obtain a circa 1945 Mills .75 with all parts. As I can see a weak joint exists under the venturi in the aluminum plate and “tabs” securing a thin slightly crazed plastic fuel bowl. Can’t seem to locate a good replacement for either. Most clone venture are part of the aluminum fuel bowl. Have you learned anything in your search? Thanks, Kep.
      Texas, USA.

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    Hello, Adrian from Trinidad, CO. Here is a photo of the HGK .20 engine I recently acquired. Nice, and tight tapered piston fit and a displacement I’ve never seen before.

    The displacement stamp is rather light, but readable and also shown on the box.

    Cheers, Steve

  2. First model Madewell Mite, 1938 needs two nuts for the crankcase screws. Also need: timer, tank and Japanese period spark plug for Hope B; timer and Japanese spark plug for Ishizue Model K22, 1942 Japan, and literature. Thanks, Paul in Thailand

  3. I would like to find a connecting rod for a DC 1cc I have a 1 and a 1.49 and the rods are interchangeable.

  4. Hi Adrian,
    I have an O&R 60 spark ignition engine and the main bearing has excessive play, that upsets the dwell time of the points, which is already very ordinary.
    I’m considering sleeving the main bearing, that is drilling it out, reaming it then pressing in a new sleeve and finishing that to the crank.
    Any comments on that process and what material would you suggest for the bearing sleeve? I’m considering phosphor bronze.
    The reason for the sleeving is that I’m not sure if the main bearing housing bush is pressed in or cast in. The other reason is that the relief for the points access to the crankshaft needs to be quite accurate. If I don’t disturb that I can follow the original slot in the original bearing.
    Your thoughts please,

    1. Hans, phosphor bronze is very good but also very tough. Common Oilite will do just fine. The bush is pressed into the front cover but you’ll need to grind the three stakes in the inside of the front cover. with the crank and ball thrust bearing removed you will be able to clearly see them. Carefully grind them out, I use a Dremel tool and a small diamond burr. Turn a press tool and a support that just clears the flanges on the bearing and support it there, the O&R casting are extremely light and easy to break. Measure the bush OD and other features and turn a new one leaking the ID a few thousandths small. Press it in and you are good to go, I have never staked one back in and I’ve never had problems, but if you think you need to an tool is simple enough to make.

  5. Further to my last post, if anyone has a new or good condition front housing for a Small Port O&R 60, or a parts engine I’d be interested.
    Flick me an email if you have.

  6. Now need a needle valve for Jenco Whirlwind 6cc. It appears it was broken when dropped in the packing process following an online auction. I managed to extract the broken needle part so all I need now is a replacement. Other than this the engine is near new. I shall endeavor to post a relevant photo asap. Thank you.

  7. I am in need of some OS FS70 (3) surpass rings which are now obsolete from OS.
    I have been trying to make connections with Bjorn from RMJ Machine Worx piston rings
    for the last 6 months via Email to order them and have not got a response yet. I really do not want to disturb him with phone calls. does anyone know if he still making the rings or how I can make contact?

  8. Dear Adrian
    I have recently acquired a MK2 Allbon 2.8 serial number 1697 with the usual modified transfer port. Is this the highest number known?
    Stewart McLaren

  9. Looking for a contact breaker assembly for a 1946 ORR Tornado 65 and does anybody know the size/pitch for the needle please? I’m happy to make one once I know the thread.

    1. I have the same engine and it sounds like I need the same parts as you. Do you have the timer frame that you could take a picture of for me? I have the capability to machine a close copy if I have to. Thanks for any help!

  10. Looking for a piston for a Ken Craft 61. I dropped mine and broke the baffle. Any help will be appreciated.


    1. Those baffles are really fragile – a surprising number of those engines show up with broken baffles. I have one myself! I really think that the only fix is to make (or have made) a new piston, which has to be custom-fitted to the bore of your particular engine. Good luck!!

  11. Adrian,

    I have a new Aristo-Craft 45 RC still in the box. It has some slight marks however, I do not think it ever saw fuel! How much could I sell it for?

    Ed P

    1. That’s actually a Kyowa 45 made in Japan – there’s an article about the Kyowa engines on my main website. They were marketed in the USA by Aristo-Craft. They’re not all that common, because not a large number were made, but they don’t seem to attract as much interest as you might expect. You should get $100 or perhaps a bit more for it, though.

  12. Hello Adrian and anybody else who can help me.

    I am looking at getting back into control line aerobatics using diesels or glow (.049 – .15). Back in the late 80’s I had P.A.W. engines in small RC planes and loved them. I got my ether and caster oil at the drug store, and kerosine at the hardware store. Can’t get ether at the drug store anymore, so where can a person get diesel fuel (I live in Osoyoos, B.C.)?

    Unless anyone has a better suggestion for engines, I’m looking at P.A.W., Sharma, or MP Jett. If I can’t do diesel, then an OS .15R/C converted to CL seems like my only option for quality engine.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


    1. Hi, Robert! Nice to hear from a fellow British Columbian!

      Diesel fuel is no problem. I use John Deere starter fluid at equal strength with ether. I use around 35% most of the time. A can has 250 ml of ether in it, which makes around 700 ml of fuel. Kerosene is easy – still available at the hardware store and pretty cheap if you buy it in a fairly large container. Castor oil is harder because of the ricin scare – it has to be the 100% cold-pressed variety. You can get it at most health and beauty stores – people use it as a skin lotion. Works just fine. Finally, ignition improver. The easiest to get is Amsoil Cetane Boost Additive which is 80% ethylhexyl nitrate. Just find an Amsoil dealer near you – they seem to be all over. Works as well as the old amyl nitrate, and in fact seems to require a lesser percentage to function well – 2% seems pretty good.

      The PAW and Sharma diesels are both really good bets – I use both myself! The MP Jett engines are also very good.

      Have fun with your diesels!!



  13. I’m looking for a complete timer assembly or any parts for same for an ORR .65 Tornado engine. Thanks very much.

  14. I need a needle valve, throttle arm and rotary exhaust throttle and screws for a 1960 Kyowa .45. The rotary throttle and needle valve look like proprietary from Roto Valve (Austin Craft?) and Veco. Any comments here?

  15. I need a complete GHQ Needle Valve Assembly. Would any of you happen to have one?


    De Hill

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    Hi Adrian,
    Great issue again! I too, hope that your article on running the old spark ignition engines gets a few more folks to drag out the old engines and make some smoke and noise. I learned some stuff also, even though I run a lot of oldies. My only addition would be that 70w oil is available as Lucas High Performance Motorcycle Oil. I get it from R & R Motorcycle in Manchester, NH but other motorcycle shops must carry it. It is expensive. If anyone else ever gets to R & R, ask for a tour of their facility. They custom build v-twin high performance motorcycle engines from scratch on 5 axis milling centers. Fascinating!

    1. Thanks for the kind words, Jim! Let’s hope that we smell more sparkie smoke as a result of that article!! Those great oldies really are a lot of fun to run!
      Thanks also for the pointer on oil availability. I’ll add that to the article.



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    Hi I am looking for parts for original mills engine, mainly all the internals, is there anyone out there.9

    1. I’m not able to provide any parts for these engines, but your request is incomplete! You need to specify the size of the engine and also precisely which part(s) you require. As it is, we don’t really know what you need!

      Good luck!!


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    Wanted: Any of the original OS ignition engines or parts pictured on the OS timeline. Any condition or parts are of interest. I’m also looking for an example of the 60 Super Hope and the Hope B engines and the TOP 5cc or smaller Japanese TOP engine. My email is Cash or trades waiting. Thanks and best to you, Paul

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    Hi Adrian
    I managed to buy an Anderson Spitfire very cheaply, however it appears it’s had a fairly hard life externally. Internally very good, rotates smoothly with good compression so I plan to run it soon.
    The outer mounting holes have been clumsily overdrilled and I’d like to improve by perhaps glueing in some short lengths of alu tube with JB Weld original. I dont want to go as far as any sort of welding, but those holes bug me every time I look at them!
    Any other suggestions?
    Or just grit my teeth and use oversize bolts and washers?
    Malcolm – UK

    1. How annoying!! I’d go with the JB Weld approach – if you use close-fitting inserts, the weld joint will hardly show. I’ve done this myself with excellent results.

      Good luck!


    2. I’ve repaired them in much the same way you suggest except I turn the plugs with small flanges that fit counter-bores I put in the screw holes. After the plugs are JBd in I lightly face the mounting surface the drill the new holes. The flange keep the bushing (plugs) from pulling out of the holes.

  20. Hi,
    I am looking for a 17/32-40 tap to use for a 3 or 5 cylinder 1/2A radial engine utilizing Cox cylinders that I would like to build. It was available a few years ago but nowhere to be found anymore.

    1. The 7/32-40 tap is among the Model Engineer (ME) tap sizes. You might get one from Reeves in England, or try the Tap & Die Co., also in England. There are links on my website under Sources.

      Good luck!



    2. Very simple to make using Oil Hardening drill rod. Thread as you would a part,, cut a tapered lead, grind a couple flutes in it, heat and quench. The flutes need not be accurate, but after you’ve hardened it you;ll need to grind the clearance behind the cutting edges. These work for limited use and cut a very servicable thread.

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    Just for info. I am 87 y.o. geyser -ex -Aussie and was the proud owner of an original Frog Mk1 bicycle spoke 1c.c.diesel engine no. 7108 on the back. I bought it in late 1947 from England, and flew my Frog 45 with it beautifully (free-flight). At ta’Qali airport in Malta. I have always kept it in good running order for history’s sake and now that I am wheelchair bound in a Home in Fgura Malta, and can watch tourist planes go up and down at Luqa airport from my balcony, I have given this near perfect Frog Mk 1 to an aquanitance who in in the airline business and a very keen aero modeler to keep it in good order. Just for history’s sake, I repeat! Cheers mate.

  22. Attachment  36-Pinterest-spares.pdf

    A couple of months ago you and Randy Ryan helpfully replied above to my question about repairing overdrilled mounting holes in an Anderson Spitfire – thank you both. I haven’t tried it yet.
    BUT earlier this year 2019 somebody in the USA Ebayed a large quantity of NOS spares for this engine and the batch was sold. See picture. I also found this same picture on Pinterest put up by a guy called Steve Betts but I’ve no idea how to contact him.
    I’d like to try to contact the new owner of these parts but have no idea how. Do you or any other subscribers to your pages have any idea where these spares are now?
    It fits in exactly with your recent proposal to help people to redistribute such spares for old engines back into good use – excellent idea Adrian.
    Can anyone help?
    Malcolm Davis – UK

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