I’ve started this new thread to assist people needing parts for a specific engine to let others know. I’ll lead off – I could use a timer assembly for a Lucas & Smith Contestor D-60-R.
Cheers!!
I’ve started this new thread to assist people needing parts for a specific engine to let others know. I’ll lead off – I could use a timer assembly for a Lucas & Smith Contestor D-60-R.
Cheers!!
I no longer need a tank
Topm
Hi Adrian, looks like I can leave comments?
Hi Adrian
not sure if i am contacting you in the correct fashion but need to talk so hear goes
in about 1960 i was desperate to have a model airplane engine i was 9 or ten years old my family had no money to speak of and i certainly didnt i havd a bike though
there was a model shop in queens road watford i think 7 miles from my home i went there to look at engines i wanted one so badly the gent in the shop must have taken pity on me and i ended up swaping my bike for an AM-049 in its bubble pack no fuel no battery didnt know i needed them i have in later life collected many aero engines but never been able to find an AM-049 i recently got one with the beam mounts sawn of no self starter told it was the rare radial mount model ! do you know anyone who has one for sale i would love to re live my youth ha ha
Barry, this is a perfectly good way to contact me! Nice to hear from you! If you have one of the rare A-M .049’s with no starter, you already have the best version – I would look no further! The Rotomatic starters (as they were called) always failed very quickly in service – the spring broke. My advice – be glad that you have one of the rare starter-less models, and enjoy it!!
Cheers,
Adrian
Happy October, Adrian. Since General Discussion is broken, I will leave my thoughts with you here.
First off, I think you greatly underestimate your value to the brothership of model engine collectors! I have lifted both facts and images off of your site (properly credited) when having online discussions elsewhere. Many others refer to information that you collected, too. Your site, along with MEN, is by far THE BEST model engine resource anywhere!
I do remember that you received an unsolicited donation not too long ago from a group on Facebook. I’m not on Facebook, but would be happy to donate toward keeping your site alive. Please don’t think it’s out of line to ask your readership for help in keeping your site running. How about setting up a way to donate via Paypal? My Aeromodeller subscription is something like $120 US per year, and I read your site more.
On another subject, I don’t see any way of contacting you to submit to “Readers Recollections”. Am I missing something by using a smartphone instead of a pc?
Regards,
Paul
Hello Adrian and every one. I have two McCoy 29 Redhead rear intake units in need of needles for the needle valves. If anyone would have one or two of them to spare please let me know.
Firstly, I hope you’ve returned to good health!
Engine-wise, did Fox ever produce mufflers for their .15X? There are drilled and tapped bosses (vertical, in the centre of the exhaust) but I’ve been unable to locate one. Can you point me towards one?
Yes, they definitely did make a muffler for that engine – I had one once. No longer have one now, but they’re probably around – just keep looking!
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi Adrian,
I haven’t found any other way to contact you, so I am trying this. I have two subjects.
Firstly, a small comment on your article re: breaking in ABC engines. I found it VERY helpful, but there was one small omission, in my opinion. There is another factor in the swelling of the upper part of the cylinder during running and that is the compression, both before and after firing. Many such engines, although very ‘tight’ if you turn them over slowly, will rotate quite freely if you give them a good fast flip – evidently the pressure is enough to expand the cylinder sufficiently to prevent the binding that is evident when just turning slowly (which allows much of the pressure to leak out).
On another matter. I have what I believe is an Ohlsson & Rice 23 sparkie. I plan to fly it in a Slicker 50 – a Bill Dean design from the 1940’s. This particular engine – serial # 109754 – so probably circa 1947, does not have cast-in mounting lugs – as I have seen in pictures of other O&R units of the era. It has the three bolts holding the front end and the backplate to the crankcase, but no lugs. Instead, it has a formed sheet steel piece that is held in place by the two upper bolts and creates two mounting ‘ears’ sticking out on either side – with two bolt holes per ‘ear’. I attach a picture. I am wondering if this is a variant, or whether it is a copy of some sort. Also, on this particular engine, the exhaust port seems to be slightly different in shape from some of the pictures I have seen. It is rather like a thick symmetrical airfoil in shape – narrower at the back than some of the more ‘oval’ ones I have seen, but not sharply pointed at the rear like some others. It appears to be between the extremes. Do you know if there were several different crankcase dies? It is always possible, I suppose, that the backplate, which bears the serial #, is from another engine and the crankcase is actually earlier than indicated.
I don’t think it’s an expanding bore due to gas pressure that makes these engines un-stick when flipped. Rather, it’s
the fact that the coefficient of dynamic friction between two surfaces (when they’re moving relative to one another) is far lower than the static coefficient of friction when they’re not moving or moving slowly. That’s why a lot of them stick when not moving but un-stick when flipped. I think that my article is correct.
Your O&R is a variant – I’ve seen a few others like it.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Adrian
Hello again Adrian. I have just noticed that I referred to a backplate in my previous email on the O&R 23. There isn’t a separate backplate, of course, it is a closed crankcase at the rear, but the three bolts go right through, with nuts on the back.
Hang tough and get well Adrian ! … Can anybody help with a Mills 1.3 mk2 con rod ? Just found a sweetie but it was painfully over compressed … Will …
Hello , Best wishes to you Adrian , your importance and good thorough work to our community cannot be overstated … I’m in need of a Mills 1.3 rod … can anyone help ? … A previous attempt at a post was up briefly then down … is there someting I must do as I’m’ new to all this blogging stuff !
Oh , I think understand now …
Adrian,
Firstly, may I wish you a good 2025 with improving health!
I’m wondering if you can help me regarding the ED Racer, Amongst other disc valve engine I have a reed valve engine (no markings and mag crankcase) and the piston has been shortened to the point where the bottom clears the exhaust ports, surely this can lead to dilution of incoming mix with exhaust whilst rather wrecking the low pressure in the crankcase during induction. I can imagine in some 2 strokes using a tuned exhaust then if a negative pressure was applied at this point it might improve crankcase filling, but not with a non-silenced exhaust surely? Perhaps I’m being dim! As an experiment I’m hoping to link two taplin twins, one driving the other as it were for a small RC boat. Best wishes, and thanks for your constant updates and great articles. Neale Shepherd: England
Actually, Neale, sub-piston induction is a really good idea with reed valve engines. Read my article on the Thuella Favoriet from the Netherlands to find out why!
Cheers,
Adrian
I wonder if the piston was shortened to provide sub-piton induction – something many diesels had on later versions. The ED Comp Special for instance is one.
Hi Adrian,
Apologies for contacting you this way but I can find no other way on your website to do so.
I read with excitement of the UEDA engines, and the serial numbers you had mentioned. I have just been fortunate enough to acquire two .19s, hopefully they don’t arrive with a broken crankshaft issue. When they arrive, I will be happy to update you with the serial numbers. One of them I know is in the 200 range.
The other question I have for you is an early Enya 63 typhoon and an early .29 redhead typhoon. Do you have any advice to what they could be worth?
Many thanks, Jeremy – I’d be glad to have those numbers!
Cheers,
Adrian
You got it! As soon as they arrive I’ll update with those serial numbers.
Hi Adrian,
The Ueda .19’s arrived. One of them is # 157 and the other is # 973
Cheers,
Jeremy
Hi Adrian, I will buy René Biber’s book assuming I can afford it when it comes out (my wallet seems subject to change without notice these days.)
Request noted, Nick! I’ll pass it along.
Cheers,
Adrian
Adrian – Hi
I was just reading your piece about René Biber’s Dyno engine book. I’d like an English language copy so could you pass that on please. Cheers!
Best regs
Mark
Request noted, Mark! I”ll pass it along.
Cheers,
Adrian
Amazing article on KO Japan model airplane engines, is this company any relation to K&O Japan that made the toy electric boat motors from 1952 to 1962 ?
I’m not aware on any connection, Kelly – as far as I know, KO never traded as K&O. The KO initials stood for Kondo Otoko (Kondo Brothers), which doesn’t fit with K&O.
Sorry that I can’t be of more help.
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi Adrian,
I recently picked up an old Aero engine at a local auction house in the UK. It was thrown in with an old static steam engine, but it was the picture of the Aero engine in the catalogue that I was more intrigued by. I am not an expert or even a novice in this field just a collector of old things mechanical and electrical.
I have been able to identify the engine from your article on the history of ED and the ED 2cc engines. Mine appears to be an ED Mk. II Type 8 from February 1948. S/N: B 1394/8, it is fitted with an ED 8 1/4 x 9 prop.
It appears to be missing the “lid” from the top of the metal fuel tank.
I would like to see if I can get it running but with the lack of the missing “lid” and zero experience, any help would be welcomed.
Don’t have a spare tank top for that engine, Duncan. Can anyone else help??
Thanks for writing!
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi. I happens to own a Webra 28 Diesel and it runs perfectly, but do not like the smell of the exhaust!! I also have a lot of spare parts for very old engines.
Personally, I love the smell of diesel exhaust! We all have our own tastes!
Thanks for writing,
Cheers,
Adrian
How do I post a WOTZIT?
This blog site allows you to attach a low-res image to a posting on this site, Randall. If you do that, someone may recognize it right away. If not, I’ll contact you directly to get the images. But please try the blog site first!
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi Adrian
I have been given two Frog diesel engines. One is a 150 and the other a 250. I need a needle valve for the 150. Can you tell me what size this would be please. Or where I could get one to suit?
I’m in awe of your website’s length and breadth of information on model aero engines. It surely is a magnum opus.
Thanks for your kind words, Tom – it’s a lot of work, and comments like yours make it all worthwhile!
I don’t know where you might find an original needle valve for the FROG 150. I don;t have a spare myself. Can any reader help Tom out here?
Cheers,
Adrian
I can give you the dimensions from my Frog 149, which will be identical. Spray bar OD = 3.0mm with 2 holes of 1mm. Bore is 1.6mm. Thread is 6BA x 12.5mm long.
Hex behind nipple on fuel tube end.
Needle wire is 1.54mm / 0.060″. Long taper with flat end of 0.77 mm. Brass thimble 12.5mm / 0.5″. Over Length of wire = 2″
Thanks David.
I recently got a spraybar assembly from Tony Eifflaender of PAW. All that was necessary was to drill through the intake with a 9/64″ to make his fit. Result is perfect. I much appreciate your reply.
Tom
Good to see you back on deck Adrian.
Hi Adrian,
I’ve just rediscovered an early Mills engine that my late father bought, probably in the late 1940’s. When I tried to start it 50(!) years ago the crank broke at the big end. Amazingly I still seem to have most of the bits. I suspect there is no chance of getting a good crank? If not I’m considering making one, though it looks a bit of a challenge – the original seems to have been either machined from solid, or some sort of a casting. I’d be interested in any comments…
Ian, I’d say that the chances of finding a good crank are pretty slim unless you can find a “bones” engine with a good crank. The Mills crankshaft is machined from the solid, so if you use good quality steel you should be able to make a close replica. That’s the way that I would go. Strange that the original crank broke – Mills engines are not known for having a tendency towards crank failures. Is it a .75 or a 1.3?
Regardless, good luck with it!!
Cheers,
Adrian
Thanks Adrian – That is pretty much what I thought.
The engine is a 1.3cc, an early one as far as I can tell. It has the numbers 70 and 85 on the crankcase flanges, and the crankcase is a machined from solid one.
I wonder if it was a Friday afternoon engine, as I only managed to get it running once, after a deal of embuggerance, and then the crank broke just below the crankpin. It looks as though the crank is hardened there, and possibly went brittle.
Machining a crank from solid is going to be a challenge with the facilities I have! I keep wondering if I can build some thing up, perhaps even using the original main shaft….
Thanks for a wonderfully informative website.
Best wishes
Ian
Its a lot less work if you can start from a high tensile bolt.
Parts wanted: Complete timers for Japanese 60 Super Hope and Mamiya 60. Also need needle valve assembly and ptop washer for the Mamiya 60. Thanks Adrian!
Can’t help with either of those, Paul – pretty rare items! Can anyone else help Paul?
Cheers,
Adrian
Good day,
I was asked to manufacture a new spray bar and needle valve for a Canadian Hurricane 24 spark ignition engine. All I have to work on is a broken piece of spray bar.
Is it possible to provide me with dimensions of the spray bar and needle valve please as well as the thread used?. The piece of spray bar has around 3 threads available and I can measure either 5-40 UNC or 1/8″ BSW.
Greetings, Theo! Thanks for writing in. Glad to hear that another Hurricane is making a comeback – they really are nice engines to run!
Threads – 5/40 UNC and 1/8-40 BSW are virtually the same thread, merely with a slightly different thread profile. I’d say that you could use either. The nut from one of my examples seems to work with both equally well. A mid-1940’s Canadian maker is perhaps a little more likely to have used the Whitworth thread, but UNC threads were certainly in use in Canada around that time.
The transverse hole in the Hurricane’s intake tube to accommodate the spraybar is drilled 1/8 in. clearance on the pickup side (the left looking forward) and is tapped on the right side with the spraybar thread. The spraybar is installed by presenting it from the pickup side and screwing it through the threaded opposite hole until the fuel jet is correctly positioned. It is then secured in this orientation with a lock-nut. Unfortunately, many examples have been drilled through to accommodate a non-standard needle valve – if the example for which you’re making this needle valve assembly has been abused in that manner, you’ll have to modify the spraybar configuration accordingly by creating a locating shoulder on the fuel pickup side.
Dimension of spraybar – LOA 1.25 in., dia. 0.125 in., unthreaded length 0.650 in., jet holes 0.500 in. from fuel pickup end (in the unthreaded portion therefore).
Dimensions of needle (tip to bend) – LOA 2.50 in., length of bend 0.375 in., length of taper 0.325 in.
Dimensions of brass thimble – LOA 0.562 in., minor (slit) diameter 0.200 in., minor dia. length 0.360 in., major diameter 0.250 in. Parallel knurling (not cross-hatched) on major diameter O/D.
I think that’s all you need. Good luck!
Cheers,
Adrian
Thank you so much, Adrian, this information is exactly what I required.
All the best
Theo
Hello Andy, Theo again.
Just a question regarding the thread on the spray bar; what is the possibility that it may be 5BA?
I am just concerned because after I have threaded it 1/8″ BSW, it does not screw through the threaded hole in the venturi, it engages around 2 threads and then binds. If the threaded hole is 5-40 UNC the 1/8″ BSW should still pass through due to the narrower pitch angle.
I have made 3D CAD models and drawings of the Hurricane NVA according to your comprehensive description above and you are welcome to have a copy of them to share.
Regards
Theo Marnewick
It could indeed be 5BA, Theo – that thread has dimensions of 0.126 in. dia. (very close to 1/8 in.) and 43 TPI (very close to 40 TPI). Suggest that you give it a try with a scrap of 1/8 material threaded 5BA. Please let me know how it goes! It seems that a number of different but very similar threads may be encountered – the maker may have used whatever taps and dies were handy at the time!
Cheers,
Adrian
apologies for the typo with your name Adrian
Hi Adrian,
May I please seek your guidance in further identifying what I believe is a 1930s or 40s spark-ignition timer breaker?
I’d be pleased to send along some images.
Thank you,
Randy
Some of those OTM engines mentioned in the latest article by Adrian anded up as parts (principally crankcases) in FIT engines from the Czech republic. I have one myself made from an OTM 0.8cc diesel. Maybe there were a lot of spares available when OTM ceased trading. Anyone know the story.
Thanks for this, David – I’ll do some research and maybe add this tid-bit to the article.
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi Adrian,
Alan here from Downunder (Australia)
I am currently attempting a restoration of a OS Max D .15 which is in good condition albeit for the piston which is missing in action.
Are you able to advise who if anyone can help me acquire of said or even a barrel/piston assembly
G’day, mate! That’s a tall order, I’m afraid – those engines are thin on the ground and spares are pretty well non-existent – I certainly don’t have any, nor do I know of a source. In truth, by far your best course of action would be to make and fit a new piston (or have one made). Well worth doing – apart from their rarity, those are very nice engines. But read the article on my website at https://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=168 to see how to sort the issue of the relatively fracture-prone shaft.
I collect serial numbers! What’s the s/n of your engine?
Good luck!
Cheers,
Adrian
Hi Adrian,
hoping you’ll see this as I can’t find any contact details or links anywhere for yourself.
The links at the bottom of the “Taipan Factory Report” don’t seem to work, and I ‘d love to see them.
I am originally from Adelaide in South Australia where Taipan engines were made, I have a few in my own collection, and also have a clipping from an old Adelaide classifieds newspaper from the late 1980s for an ad listing tooling etc for Taipan model engines (I now wish I’d somehow convinced Dad to by those pieces of history as I was only in my mid teens at the time).
Regards, Tyson
Melbourne, Australia
There’s a problem with my website displaying some of the uploaded attachments, Tyson. I’m trying to get on top of this, but I’m a cyber-moron with minimal IT skills. Nevertheless, I’ll persevere!
I was born in Adelaide myself, but only lived there until I was 7 years old. Our family moved around a bit!
Cheers,
Adrian
Small world hey!
I lived in Adelaide for my first 40 years, before making the move to the Yarra Valley east of Melbourne.
Good luck with the website, I too am cyber challenged..
Hi
Tyson here from Melbourne, Australia,
I am hoping to find a brass fuel tank holding nut for a Cyclone spark engine (either hex or round/knurled) I’ve seen them with both and am not sure which type was correct?
I am also chasing a bulb fuel tank for a DAV-CAL Dart 0.5cc Quickstart diesel.
Any help would be appreciated to complete these two engines.
Regards,
Tyson
I’ve seen both too, Tyson – don’t know which is correct.
I don’t have one of those tanks, so I can’t help there either. Can anyone else assist Tyson??
Cheers,
Adrian