Parts Wanted

I’ve started this new thread to assist people needing parts for a specific engine to let others know.  I’ll lead off – I could use a timer assembly for a Lucas & Smith Contestor D-60-R.

Cheers!!

22 thoughts on “Parts Wanted

    1. Hi Tom, I too have managed to obtain a circa 1945 Mills .75 with all parts. As I can see a weak joint exists under the venturi in the aluminum plate and “tabs” securing a thin slightly crazed plastic fuel bowl. Can’t seem to locate a good replacement for either. Most clone venture are part of the aluminum fuel bowl. Have you learned anything in your search? Thanks, Kep.
      Texas, USA.

  1. Attachment

    Hello, Adrian from Trinidad, CO. Here is a photo of the HGK .20 engine I recently acquired. Nice, and tight tapered piston fit and a displacement I’ve never seen before.

    The displacement stamp is rather light, but readable and also shown on the box.

    Cheers, Steve

  2. First model Madewell Mite, 1938 needs two nuts for the crankcase screws. Also need: timer, tank and Japanese period spark plug for Hope B; timer and Japanese spark plug for Ishizue Model K22, 1942 Japan, and literature. Thanks, Paul in Thailand

  3. I would like to find a connecting rod for a DC 1cc I have a 1 and a 1.49 and the rods are interchangeable.

  4. Hi Adrian,
    I have an O&R 60 spark ignition engine and the main bearing has excessive play, that upsets the dwell time of the points, which is already very ordinary.
    I’m considering sleeving the main bearing, that is drilling it out, reaming it then pressing in a new sleeve and finishing that to the crank.
    Any comments on that process and what material would you suggest for the bearing sleeve? I’m considering phosphor bronze.
    The reason for the sleeving is that I’m not sure if the main bearing housing bush is pressed in or cast in. The other reason is that the relief for the points access to the crankshaft needs to be quite accurate. If I don’t disturb that I can follow the original slot in the original bearing.
    Your thoughts please,
    Regards,
    Hans

  5. Further to my last post, if anyone has a new or good condition front housing for a Small Port O&R 60, or a parts engine I’d be interested.
    Flick me an email if you have.
    Regards,
    Hans

  6. Now need a needle valve for Jenco Whirlwind 6cc. It appears it was broken when dropped in the packing process following an online auction. I managed to extract the broken needle part so all I need now is a replacement. Other than this the engine is near new. I shall endeavor to post a relevant photo asap. Thank you.

  7. I am in need of some OS FS70 (3) surpass rings which are now obsolete from OS.
    I have been trying to make connections with Bjorn from RMJ Machine Worx piston rings
    for the last 6 months via Email to order them and have not got a response yet. I really do not want to disturb him with phone calls. does anyone know if he still making the rings or how I can make contact?

  8. Dear Adrian
    I have recently acquired a MK2 Allbon 2.8 serial number 1697 with the usual modified transfer port. Is this the highest number known?
    Yours
    Stewart McLaren

  9. Looking for a contact breaker assembly for a 1946 ORR Tornado 65 and does anybody know the size/pitch for the needle please? I’m happy to make one once I know the thread.

  10. Looking for a piston for a Ken Craft 61. I dropped mine and broke the baffle. Any help will be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Jeff

    1. Those baffles are really fragile – a surprising number of those engines show up with broken baffles. I have one myself! I really think that the only fix is to make (or have made) a new piston, which has to be custom-fitted to the bore of your particular engine. Good luck!!

  11. Adrian,

    I have a new Aristo-Craft 45 RC still in the box. It has some slight marks however, I do not think it ever saw fuel! How much could I sell it for?

    Ed P

    1. That’s actually a Kyowa 45 made in Japan – there’s an article about the Kyowa engines on my main website. They were marketed in the USA by Aristo-Craft. They’re not all that common, because not a large number were made, but they don’t seem to attract as much interest as you might expect. You should get $100 or perhaps a bit more for it, though.

  12. Hello Adrian and anybody else who can help me.

    I am looking at getting back into control line aerobatics using diesels or glow (.049 – .15). Back in the late 80’s I had P.A.W. engines in small RC planes and loved them. I got my ether and caster oil at the drug store, and kerosine at the hardware store. Can’t get ether at the drug store anymore, so where can a person get diesel fuel (I live in Osoyoos, B.C.)?

    Unless anyone has a better suggestion for engines, I’m looking at P.A.W., Sharma, or MP Jett. If I can’t do diesel, then an OS .15R/C converted to CL seems like my only option for quality engine.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Robert

    1. Hi, Robert! Nice to hear from a fellow British Columbian!

      Diesel fuel is no problem. I use John Deere starter fluid at equal strength with ether. I use around 35% most of the time. A can has 250 ml of ether in it, which makes around 700 ml of fuel. Kerosene is easy – still available at the hardware store and pretty cheap if you buy it in a fairly large container. Castor oil is harder because of the ricin scare – it has to be the 100% cold-pressed variety. You can get it at most health and beauty stores – people use it as a skin lotion. Works just fine. Finally, ignition improver. The easiest to get is Amsoil Cetane Boost Additive which is 80% ethylhexyl nitrate. Just find an Amsoil dealer near you – they seem to be all over. Works as well as the old amyl nitrate, and in fact seems to require a lesser percentage to function well – 2% seems pretty good.

      The PAW and Sharma diesels are both really good bets – I use both myself! The MP Jett engines are also very good.

      Have fun with your diesels!!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

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