General Discussion

Greetings! Noting that a lot of folks quite rightly don’t know where to look on this site to add a comment on a topic for which there’s no established thread, I’ve set up this new thread which is intended as a place to post any and all comments on any subject for which no specific thread currently exists. I will monitor this thread regularly, and if a topic comes up that appears to warrant its own thread, I’ll create a new separate posting for that topic.

Hope to hear from some more of you!!

Cheers,

Adrian

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175 thoughts on “General Discussion

  1. Ernesto, I can certainly provide specifications for the needle of the Ken. It may take time – I’m really busy at the moment, but I’ll do what I can’

    I hope the article was of interest!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  2. Alistair, I’ve added your engine to the Wotizit pages. We’ll see who may know more about it!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  3. Thanks for the kind words, Malcolm! That article seems to have been welcomed by a lot of our fellow enthusiasts – I’ve had quite a few positive comments like yours!

    I assume that you’re using a transistorized ignition system like that which I described. If not, you should be!! Assuming that you are using such a system, you shouldn’t need to add a resistor to the primary circuit. Such a resistor would simply reduce the current to the coil’s primary, which will already be down a bit anyway because of the higher primary resistance of your motorcycle coil. The coil can handle 6 volts, but should still work OK with 3.6 volts. The trigger circuit should still have the 20-22 ohm resistor because the battery voltage is unchanged with your set-up, hence the points are unaffected by the coil switch.

    I think you should set up this coil with your 3.6 volt battery pack along with a plug and run the very simple coil test suggested in my article. I suspect that the test plug will spark just fine! If it does, your system will work. There’s no way that you’ll blow anything up since you’re using a lower voltage than the coil can handle and the voltage that you’re using is completely consistent with the transistor requirements.

    Please let us know how you get on!

    All the best,

    Adrian

  4. G’day Adrian,

    I have a NIB Enya 0.25 SS25BB Diesel to run in, I have accessed your running articles an shall proceed accordingly. Am I on the right track?

    Great Site Regards,

    RW

    Nambour QLD Australia

  5. Thanks for this, Ates! My BWM article is still on MEN, so I can’t change it at the moment. However, when I do so, I will add your number.

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  6. Jed, I suspect that your engine is indeed on of the Zeus replicas which passed Ivor F’s inspection and was sold accordingly as a second generation Doonside. They are indeed very nice engines! I’ve only ever seen the 2 designation on those units that got past Ivor – I suspect that this was how he designated those engines.

    Anyway, good find!!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  7. Attachment

    Hi Adrian, I wanted to share how the “slippy” prop driver issue was solved by a previous owner of my Mite 098. The cutout on the prop driver appears to be deformed with use but it would be easy to file a new one. Works great!

    1. Thanks, Ates! There are a few approaches to this issue , and that’s certainly one of them!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  8. Hi Adrian

    Just been re reading your interesting your article on the early years at Allbon. I have a Green head Mk 1 Dart marked serial number 359. It is quite well used but still starts and runs ok despite being 70 plus or so years old!!. It has its original box which has manufactured by Allbon Eng. Co. (sunbury) Ltd and distributed by Mercury Model Aircraft supplies London N7 on the respective sides. I wonder if there were any later serial numbers?

    1. Thanks for the info, Bob! The highest number yet reported is 506. A revised version of the article will appear on my website in due course.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

    1. It’s reminiscent of an early McCoy plug, but it isn’t one that I’ve ever seen. Can anyone else assist here?

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  9. Attachment

    lol, i thought i’d unscrew a burnt out one and snapped it off, i really don’t think it’s homemade or modified? Somebody said they thought it was a early Enya glowplug?

  10. Attachment

    Hello Adrian….I’m a modelling obsessive from Brisbane lucky to have my own flying field on my farm near Boonah. It’s a registered club with a membership of two where I try to recapture the carefree days of my youth before the fun police took over. I’m right on the boundary of the RAAF Amberley restricted area.

    We have only two rules…. 1. There are only two rules. 2. Make lots of noise.

    With 118 acres to play on and my nearest neighbour 600m away, I don’t have an issue though I was surprised recently when a neighbour 2 kilometres away said she hadn’t heard me flying recently…. hmmmmm, that unmuffled BGX 1 does make noise.

    My son who flies for the RAAF was recently posted to Amberley and I’ve asked for low flyovers….fun, fun, fun!!! Keep up the great work Adrian.

    Rgds

    John

    1. Thanks for the encouragement, John! You are certainly lucky to have such a flying facility!!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  11. Ouch!! That’s a tough component to make! Rebores are one thing, but a new liner is quite another. Cutting those tiny ports would be a challenge ……..

    I don’t know of anyone anywhere who could tackle this. Does any reader have any suggestions for Bob?

    Cheers regardless,

    Adrian

  12. Many years ago I ran a Webra .09 diesel using Carbon Disulphide as a substitute for Ethyl Ether. Only for a short run. It ran okay. The engine did not appear to be damaged considering that the exhaust products likely contained Sulphur Dioxide.

    1. Speaking personally, I wouldn’t touch carbon disulphide with a ten foot pole – the health implications are horrendous! That said, it should theoretically work even better than ether as an ignition enhancer given its very low auto-ignition temperature of only 90 deg. C, but is that worth the risk, even if you can get some? I don’t think so! Still, I have no doubt that your Webra ran fine on such a fuel.

      Thanks for sharing!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

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    Recently a “Fox 60 Racing Engine” was on eBay. Typical McCoy layout.

    I don’t think Fox ever built such an engine. I have copied the eBay illustrations and can email them to you (if I had your email address)

  14. Hi Adrian, I have been looking for an entry point to your blog, this is the only I have found. I have something on diesel fuel. Please reply and tell me if this is the right place, and I will post the information.

      1. Hi Adrian,I have found very interesting information of an 18 cc compression ignition (diesel) engine used to power a bicycle.
        Read http://douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/TRANSPORT/motorisedbicycle/motorisedbicycle.htm#loh

        It leads to an auction site where a guy bought it and started to experiment with the fuel containing petrol, kerosene (paraffine), diesel fuel and twostroke oil.
        And actually got it running. Must be ok as thousands were made in Germany.
        Read https://buyvintage1.wordpress.com/page-120-1952-bsa-b31-350cc/

        I have done a bit of research and found that petrol containing mostly Heptane is not too bad from the selfignition point of view.
        Self ignition temperature is about 200 deg C vs ether about 170 deg C. Flash point is -5 deg C vs ether -40 deg c Ignition mixture range 0,6-7 & vs ether ?-36,.5 %
        Actually I don´t know if these figues are relevant.

        May be hard to start in our small displacement engines and the lubrication may be questionable. The guy wrote he had to pedal 10 meters before it started.
        I have not made any attempt to use it. Don´t know which engine to sacrifice. What do you think, will it work in model diesels?

        Bosse

        1. Interesting bicycle engine, Bosse! Etherless diesel fuels based on heptane have often been tried. They do work, but are harder to start and require more compression, thus placing higher loads on the working parts. If ether is available, best to stick with it!

          Cheers,

          Adrian

          1. Hi Adrian,
            Ether is unobtainable in Sweden, when I grew up more than 65 years ago one could buy it in the pharmacy or chemist shop, no questions asked. Possibly JD starting fluid can be found. Sounds expensive.

            Do you really think a higher compression ratio will increase the forces on moving parts sigificantly. I would think combustion pressure is much higher than the compression pressure, and would etherless fuel increase the combustion pressure? Maybe Heptane based fuel burn hotter? What about cooling?
            /Bosse

  15. Hi Adrian,
    I posted on here back in December last year about an Albon 2.8, I have a problem now since my ip address seems to be blocked on your site. When I try to login I get error 503 temp forbidden, it seems to be since I tried to download the Kemp Vulture piston drawings when I got a strange screen saying something like malicious attempt your ip address has been logged. Can you do anything to reverse this?
    Best regards
    Laurence.

    1. Sadly, I have no idea why this happened to you, Laurence. The inner workings of my site are a closed book to me – it’s a standard website platform which comes with its own built-in logic. I have control over the content – I have no control over the platform’s logic.

      Such problems can be caching issues. Have you tried emptying your browser cache?

      Sorry I can’t help,

      Cheers anyway,

      Adrian

      1. I tried clearing the cache to no avail, I think I’ll have a go at changing my ip address. Perhaps you could have a look at the vulture gudgeon pin piston drawing pdf linked on your vulture page to see if it can be downloaded, I’m sure that my attempt to download that file caused the issue.

        Cheers,
        Laurence.

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    Dear Adrian

    I recently purchased a box of model aeroplane part from the 1960s which included an engine that I think may be of particular interest.

    I would like some help in identifying this unusual engine. I attach a picture.

    Any help would be much appreciated.

    Best wishes

    John

    1. Attachment

      Maybe this has already been answered because the post is old. Your engine is a 1.2cc Clan made in Scotland in the late 1940’s to early 1950’s. I will see if I can attach a picture of the engine.

      1. Hi Ken, My memory is NOT as good as it once was, but it tells me there were two Clan engine sizes and Adrian may remember I wrote about one of them some time ago. They made a Clan .2 and a Clan .9 but I have no recollection of a 1.2 – not to say there wasn’t one, just my recollections.

        What is in NO DOUBT in my mind is that after flying my old Easy Bee with the clan .9 I replaced it with an old FROG 100 Gold Head and by comparison, it jumped out of my hand and headed skyward – unlike the pedestrian performance of the Clan .9 – interesting little engines though – made not far from where I am sitting in Fife, East central Scotland. If you want to chat Ken, Try me on don.imrie@hotmail.com – Happy New Year.

  17. G’day Adrian, I have just read your informative history of the frog early engines, after I was given what I now know is a Frog 160 early model. Interestingly, the serial number is RG4602 (?), which is outside the known range in your article. I also notice that the top of the crankcase is a little different to the photos of the early version, having the same casting as the later model, but with the hold down arrangement of the early model. Perhaps an indicator of the transition from early to later. Regards, Ted Smith

    1. Thanks for this, Ted – I’ll have a think about if and how I might be able to incorporate some of this information. I really appreciate your interest!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  18. Hi Adrian,
    I recently inherited a Magnum 40 which was seized up, I thought it was from old Castor oil, as it is 40 years old, and based on your advice I was able to free it up. The piston has vertical grooves on it visible through the exhaust port, they are quite deep and under a magnifying they seem to be machined as they have what looks like lead in. The cylinder seems OK inside and I didn’t put the head back on but with just palm pressure it seems to have compression. Is this because it seized up running too lean, or is it some sort of design feature. Do you think the engine is junked ?

    1. I suspect that you’ll find that the compression disappears when the engine is assembled and lubricated with fuel – those grooves should not be there. Sounds to me like the results of a seizure.

      Good luck with it anyway,

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  19. Neil, the pictures uploaded fine. I do not know of a Sky Devil replica by someone called Don John. I only know of replicas by RJL and Don Sohn. Did you mean Don Sohn? I don’t think that you have a Don Sohn replica there – I have one of those, and the head and prop mounting gear on your example are quite different, as is the finish on the case. The casting is different too. And it’s definitely not an RJL replica. Is there in fact a Don John about whom I know nothing?

    Does your engine have a serial number?

    Regardless, thanks for your interest!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  20. Velmi zajímavé je zde mnoho věcí , které jsem doposud jako dlouholetý modelář
    ( modelařím již přes50 let) Již 15 let sbírám modelářské motory a moje sbírka čítá něco přes 400 ks. Mám všechny motory od pana Pfeffera a jeho kamaráda pana Pokorného z Brna.

    O.Palasman

    1. Díky za to, Oldřich! Jsem moc rád, že jste zde našli něco zajímavého!

      Všechno nejlepší,

      Adriane

  21. Hi Adrian,

    On your other site, the page describing the MEN Members Only Plan Book and the page describing the Motor Boys Plan Book both refer to a link that will provide access to the information but I see no link. Am I missing something?

    1. Sadly, the problem stems from the fact that the “Attachments” function on my website no longer seems to work. I’m trying to sort it out, but no luck so far. I’ll let everyone know if it gets fixed.

      Sorry about this!

      Adrian

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    Hi
    I just saw this article in an old copy of MAN. I haven’t heard of these engines and just wondered whether they were popular and many were made. I quite like the look of them anyway.

    1. That’s an Embee .75 barstock diesel made in relatively small numbers in England. I had one once. They were quite well made but didn’t have a lot of power. They’re quite rare today.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

        1. Cox made their cases from barstock extrusions which had the correct basic crankcase shape. Very efficient approach!

          Cheers,

          Adrian.

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    G’day Adrian,

    I have a Phantom P-30 Mk1 Serial number (A2663) residing with me in Western Australia enjoying sunny days and Aussie bbqs.

    Cheers
    Paul

    1. Thanks, mate – every number helps!! Watch for the article ………………..

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  24. Adrian. I have a N.I.B. P-30, third version, serial number N1737. It also has a new and unused Firecracker coil, HT lead and condenser in the box as well as the operating instructions and parts list.
    Dave H

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    Hi Adrian & other folks. It seems that we’re quickly running out of vintage aero engine experts here in Australia and I have a query. I recently attempted to buy an Anderson Baby Spitfire at auction (you know the one) and was unfortunately unsuccessful, but curiously the engine had the stamping “I F S 077” on the rear of the case. I’m assuming it’s a reference to Ivor F Stow, a passed local authority on engines. I’m curious as to what Ivor may have done to the engine to deserve having it marked as such. Also, what was likely the 077 marking? Year?

    On general matters, what is the best way to make contact? I’m unfamiliar with this site and this blog seems to be the only way to make contact

    1. Rod, I’m pretty sure that you’re right about the IFS thing and most likely the date as well. The guy who would be most likely to know is Ivor’s son Tahn. Do you have his contact info?

      I don’t share my direct email address unless I have a full name and a location. Just a policy of mine!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

    2. Rod, I contacted Ivor’s son Tahn Stowe. Tahn tells me that at some point his dad acquired a penchant for stamping engines. That one was part of his collection, hence the IFS stamping. The number 077 is simply the number assigned to the engine in Ivor’s collection.

      Unfortunately Ivor carried this stamping fetish over to other engines. Tahn recalls an incident when Ivor sold an original Mk. I Doonside Mills .75 to a customer and thought that it would be a good idea to stamp the bloke’s name on the front of the case, doing so without asking first! The engine was returned as unwanted because of this. Since collectible engines like that get passed around, I’m in sympathy with the buyer – the stamping would be a liability if he sold it on in turn! Tahn sold the engine on eBay a few years ago.

      Hope this clears it up!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  26. Dear Adrian,

    Have followed your site with interest for some time. I have a NIB Enya 0.25 RC Carb Diesel I intend to run. I’m aware of your run in article but would appreciate some advice on tuning for flying. I recall from my Control Line Youth Leaning out on the needle then the Compression Screw, Diesel advice very thin on the ground here in QLD Australia.

    Many Thanks,

    Russell

    1. That’s an ABC unit, right? So follow the recommendations on running in an ABC engine, and she’ll be right!

      As far as setting a diesel for flight goes, it’s really a step-by-step process involving both controls. You recollection is correct – you begin with the needle and lean it out a bit, then try the comp screw. Once you’ve optimized the compression at that needle setting, go back to the needle and see if there’s more to be had by a further lean-out. Eventually you find the leanest setting at which the engine will run smoothly, then optimize the compression one last time and there you are! It’s usually best to launch at the lowest compression setting which produces the peak speed – there’s usually a narrow range.

      Hope this helps!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  27. I won’t be checking my settings, mate – the size is set for a reason! Storage costs are largely due to image storage, and I have to minimize that. So the remedy is to reduce the image size!

    Thanks for your comments!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

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    I find myself inheriting THREE Hope B motors from an old motorcycle racing mentor of mine. Searched all over the web, YOU – seem to be the only feller who knows and writes about this early Japanese brand

    Cox? I have plenty of spares, bits, knowledge.

    HopeB? nothing

    one is missing piston, cracked cyl head fins, cut down intake. no plugs, no NVA, no timing chests

    Can you point me at ANY supply source, or feller that restores these? I’d like to make at least one? close to running.

    Thank you

    1. Those engines are pretty far gone, Charles, although I have little doubt that you could sort a glow-plug runner from the three. They’re all original sparkies, and replacement timers are non-existent. In fact, parts for the Hope B are non-existent in general. There used to be people who might take these on, but most of them have packed it in. It’s a matter of finding someone who has the machine tools and is willing to do a lot of work for little money! Model engine restoration is pretty much a labour of love ……

      Sorry I can’t be of any more help. I hope you can cobble up a runner – those engines really do run well!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

      1. sometimes “this is not a project, those are displays now” IS the best advice, thank you for it. and keeping me out of that mouse-hole

  29. Hi Adrian,
    I’m wondering if you can give me some advice.
    I have a FROG 500 Red Glow fitted with Vandervell main bearing and ball thrust race.
    And rear tank.
    It’s still in the original box with stickers. Never run, as new.
    What would it be worth? And what would be the best place to advertise it?

    Thanks in advance.
    Alan Jenkins (Australia)

    1. Those engines aren’t all that rare, Alan, even in that condition. What is it worth? Whatever someone at the time is willing to pay you for it! Values fluctuate a lot – at the moment, they’re a bit down.

      I’d try offering it on eBay. If it matters, you could set the reserve bit at whatever you feel that you should get for the engine. The market will decide what it’s worth.

      Hope this helps at least a little!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  30. Adrian,
    I wanted to give you al little update on CARLSON ENGINE IMPORTS. Ed Carlson who started the business has passed away earlier this year. The website had been down and landing changes – complicated by his health conditions.

    The new revamped website is operational – albeit still inputting all the inventory, photo’s and videos. I am looking to add additional video selections to help teach and show operational theory for the Deisel engines, as well as give better visuals for what these engines look like.

    Please update your section for the company listing. I am Randell, Ed’s son – and can be listed as the company contact. Thanks, and hope all is well on your end!

    Carlson Engine Imports – http://www.carlsonengineimports.com
    602-863-1684

    1. Randell, I’m really sorry to hear about your Dad – I had not been aware previously that he had passed away. I had many very cordial interactions with him over the years, and I will miss our telephone chats.

      I’m delighted to hear that the business is continuing under your management. I will give you a call in the near future to establish personal contact. In the meantime, I will amend the company listing on my website and will include a notice in my next Editorial.

      Again, my sympathy for your loss.

      Best wishes,

      Adrian

    2. Randell, I’ve updated the entry for Carlson Engine imports in my “Sources” pages on the main website. I hope that this brings some more contacts for you from among my many readers!

      All the best,

      Adrian

  31. Hi Adrian

    I enjoyed reading your article on the Aerol Elfin 50. I recently acquired one of these little engines which is complete and seems in good shape. Do you by any chance have any literature on these engines?? Apart from your article there is precious little out there!
    Many thanks
    Bob

  32. Hi Can anyone tell me how to make your own Diesel Fuel and where to get the ingredients and what proportions, Ether is impossible to get I read you can use Engine Starter is that o/k Regards Barry UK

    1. Barry, full details of making your own diesel fuels are available on my main website at:

      https://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=72

      You can indeed use engine started fluid. You just have to formulate your fuel mix in accordance with the percentage of ether in the starting fluid – it varies between brands. John Deere starting fluid is the best – it’s 80% ether. I don’t know if it’s available in the UK. But others will work too. I’ve been making my own fuel for years using this stuff.

      It is also possible to make an ether-less fuel, although they tend to need more compression, hence putting more of a load on the engine. I hope to feature an article on them when time permits.

      Thanks for your interest!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  33. Hi Thankyou for the information, can you use Castrol R40 for oil content. Kind regards Barry

  34. Hi Adrian Thanks you have been a great help l wished I’d known about your blog sooner.
    Kind regards Barry

    1. Hi Adrian I am having a lot of trouble finding Castrol R40 there have stopped making it at the moment what else can l use and get in the UK. Kind regards Barry

      1. You should be able to find Klotz Benol racing castor oil in the UK, Barry – I checked, and it seems to be readily available there. The Leeds Model Shop has it, among many others. I’ve used it for years going back to my 2-stroke motorcycle racing days. It works very well in model diesels.

        Hope this helps!

        Cheers,

        Adrian

  35. Hi Adrian l use Leeds Model Shop all the time, l placed an order with them to day thanks your a great help Kind regards Barry

  36. Hi Adrian l have checked Leeds web site and they have the oil in stock, l have found the John Deere Engine starter on EBay, the Paraffin in a local shop and ml measuring jug that’s me sorted. A note of interest a friend of mine gave me an Engine he thought was broken and didn’t know the make, it was an Ed Bee my first Engine this one had a LH Thread Mk1 Series1 Ref no lk88/8 October 1948 very rare l sorted it out and it works fine.
    Thanks for your help Barry

  37. Hi Adrian. Which is the safest way to get the John Deere Engine Starting Fluid out of the can? Regards Barry

    1. The method that I use is fully described in my article on making your own diesel fuel, Barry. I sent you the link on June 25th – see below.

      https://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=72

      I’d say that there is no “safe” way to get the fluid out of the can. I’ve been using the method which I described for years with no problems, but that does not guarantee that it’s necessarily safe. Accidents can happen, and unexpected circumstances can arise! You have to judge the risks for yourself and proceed (or not proceed) accordingly. End of safety disclaimer!!

      Good luck!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

    1. I’ve never heard of such a substitution, Barry. Given the ready availability of paraffin, I can’t see much purpose in it. However, I will make inquiries – it’s an interesting speculation!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  38. I was at a model steam train gala today and the Gauge 1 group use it to steam up there locos instead of meths they said it was a lot cleaner. Regards Barry

  39. Dave makes a good point – ethanol has about half the calorific value of paraffin (aka kerosene). So performance of your diesel would likely be rather anaemic!

    Thanks, Dave!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  40. Just as a matter of interest, when working for a living (now retired), I had access to MTBE (methyl tert-butyl ether) and many other solvents for research purposes. Naturally I tried some in model diesel fuel, but with no success whatsoever, that is using standard compression settings. Many times I have thought about safe alternatives to diethyl ether, but can’t come up with anything other than low mol wt alkanes, which you mention in your own study. Nothing is as satisfactory as diethyl ether.

  41. Very informative comments, Dave. Experiments have shown that it is possible to make a functional model diesel fuel with naphtha instead of ether, but there are some operational issues with such fuels. I plan to run an article on the subject at some point in the future.

    Thanks for your input!

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  42. As you may know, the term “naphtha” covers a multitude of possible solvents / blends / cuts of hydrocarbons. The most favourable for our application would seem to be light naphtha which usually contains a range of cyclo and aliphatic alkanes up to around C6/C7 – exact constituents will depend upon source. The branched isomers tend to have lower boiling points than the normal (straight chain) alkanes, whereas the cyclo isomers tend to have higher boiling points, and vapour pressure will also vary. Overall such a blend may offer a small advantage over the individual hydrocarbons that I looked at, but I can’t see it working without higher compression, though it would be nice!

    1. Quite right, Dave. The form of light naphtha that is most commonly used in model engine fuels is the material sold as camp fuel – Coleman Camp Fuel in North America and Shellite in Australia are examples. Don’t know if there’s a UK equivalent. Anyway, the Aussies have got diesels to run on a fuel in which Shellite is substituted for the ether, although it does require higher compression and is somewhat less flexible than an ether-based brew. I’ve used Coleman Camp Fuel for years as a white gas substitute for classic sparkie operation.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  43. Everyone that I know over here runs sparkies on regular gasoline / petrol (E5 preferably) mixed at 3:1 with the heaviest oil they can find, and it works just fine. My old pal John Maddaford (fine engine maker, but alas departed) used 20-50 multigrade. As said before, owing to the ethanol, its also possible to use castor oil if desired. Coleman Camp Fuel can be found, but why bother.
    Dave

    1. The reason for using camp fuel is that the ethanol in modern pump gas ruins the plastic gas tanks over time. If the engine doesn’t use a plastic tank, you can certainly run on pump gas – you can also run on a methanol/castor brew.

      Thanks for the comments!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  44. True, but with E5 there is no issue as the ethanol content is too low and the exposure time is short.

  45. Hi Adrian I would like to post a photograph of the ED Bee I restored this one has a LH Spinner Nut dated October 1948 Ref No Ik88/8 but having problems down loading it as not much good with computers can you help Kind Regards Barry

    1. There are a few step that you need to take, Barry. First, you have to have the image saved as a jpg file or similar on your computer. Then, when you go to post on this blog (which you’re clearly able to do), you will see an option to add attachments. Select that option, and you can then select the image by browsing your computer’s database, and it will appear with your message. The one caveat is that the file size of the image can’t be too large – around 200 KB is OK, but not much more. If it’s easier for you to adjust the size of your image, around 600×500 works OK.

      I don’t know what else I can say to help! It’s actually pretty simple, but I understand just how daunting computers can be!

      Cheers, and thanks for your interest!

      Adrian

  46. Hi Adrian I can do this on my computer not my iPad Thanks for all your help and time given to us all. Kind regards Barry

  47. I was surprised and saddened at hearing of the passing of Ed Carlson- I must have been one of his last customers.
    I visited him several times over the years during trips to Phoenix. His house was where he ran his business from. He was happy to talk modeling as long as I wished.
    One non- modeling thing that he told me, I found especially interesting. He was presesnt at the founding of the Libertarian political party here in the States in the early seventies, being their first secretary.
    Rest in peace, Ed.

  48. Hello Adrian,
    I’m writing about some difficulty I’ve been experiencing in trying to obtain ingredients for diesel fuel. I have a 45 year old Webra Mach II diesel, .15 displacement. It hasn’t been run in all that time, but it’s been carefully stored. Recently, I disassembled and cleaned it, and now it’s back together and looking great. It’s a wonderful little engine that always performed well on fuel that I mixed myself, invariably starting with no more than a couple of prop flips. My fuel recipe was 45% kerosene, 26.5% castor oil, 28.75% ether, and 2% hexyl nitrate. I mixed it in one pint batches, using 8 ounces of kerosene, 4.5 ounces of castor oil, 4 ounces of ether, and 1 teaspoon of hexyl nitrate. I don’t recall where I got that recipe, just that it worked very well. Now I’ve been unable to locate hexyl nitrate or amyl nitrate, which I seem to recall would work as well. I also have been unable to find a distributor of model diesel fuel that is ready to use.

    Are you able to assist me in any way ?

    Thanks,
    Chuck Leigh
    Truro, Massachusetts (Cape cod)

    1. Chuck, I can do no better than refer you to my article on making diesel fuel which may be found at:

      https://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=72

      Your fuel recipe seems OK. All ingredients remain readily available. Kerosene is sold in most hardware stores. For ether, use John Deere starting fluid. Klotz Benol racing castor oil seems to work just fine as a lubricant. Finally, try Amsoil Cetane Boost diesel fuel additive as your nitrate ignition improver – works great! It’s all in my article.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  49. I’ve prepared a clear-type transcript of those pages, which Tahn has been good enough to check for adherence to the original handwritten text. Although there are a few inconsistencies and anomalies in Ivor’s comments, Tahn and I both agree that it’s worth making the document freely available to all as an insight into the thinking of one of aeromodelling’s truly great characters. It may be viewed through ***this link***, warts and all – hope you enjoy it!

    The link does not work. Comes up with:

    Forbidden
    You don’t have permission to access this resource.
    Apache Server at adriansmodelaeroengines.com Port 443

  50. Greetings Adrian.
    I’ve read most of your technical articles.
    Been mucking around with model engines for a number of years now but have recently been trying to restore some of the older ones back to a working condition.
    Thought I’d pose a question.
    Has anyone come up with a workable solution to restore/seal that O&R cylinder/head gasket?
    I can’t find any up to date information.
    I have a couple of O&R 23 sparkers I’m working on at the moment.
    I would like to do something about the gasket while the engine parts are still clean and to give me the best possible chance of getting the engines to start and run.
    The best solution is to replace it but that’s not going to happen.
    I’ve thought about wicking threadlockers/sealants and car products for sealing head gaskets and oil leaks.
    Many thanks.

    Kind regards,
    Brian.

    1. The O&R cylinders are blind-bored, Brian – there is no head gasket! If you have a leak, it’s either the plug seal or simple piston leak-down.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

      1. Greetings Adrian.

        Thanks for your reply.
        Sorry for the confusion.
        I should have explained the problem a bit better.
        Kind regards,
        Brian

  51. What Brian is referring to, Adrian, is the gasket between the cylinder and crankcase. When originally made, there was a gasket inserted between those parts. The cylinder was then pressed against the crankcase to compress the gasket, then steel plugs were spot welded through holes in the case to the steel cylinder. Those plugs were then covered with an aluminum cap. There was a guy who had the equipment to replace a leaky gasket, though he has long ago left us. I’ve never had to repair such a leak on an O&R, but I have read somewhere that someone managed to make an effective repair by digging out what gasket he could get to with a hobby knife, and wrapping in the void a length of string that was coated with JB Weld or similar epoxy.

    It might not be an elegant solution, but if an engine is leaking badly at that joint, there is little to lose by trying this.

    Paul

    1. Greetings Paul.

      Thanks for your reply.
      The JB Weld method seemed a little too drastic for me to try.
      I’ll reassemble the O&R 23 side port and try starting it.
      If it leaks badly and won’t start, the car products used to stop oil leaks may be the way to go.
      At least the gasket will remain in situ.
      If a product is going to work, an oily gasket hopefully shouldn’t worry it.
      Kind regards,
      Brian

  52. Hi, I’ve tried repeatedly to send an email to the wotzit email provided, but it keeps coming back as undelivered. Any advice?

    1. That email address wasn’t maintained and has died, Tony. Best to use this blog site for communication.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  53. Attachment

    All I know about model engines I learned from the web, mostly your site, in the last few days. I bought this at a garage sale. It’s similar to a Hassad, and the sale was a few blocks from the Garnet Ave. workshop mentioned in one of your articles.

      1. Thanks for these, Tony! I’ll put them up on the Wotizit site to see if anyone can I/D it. It’s not a standard Hassad model, but it does look like a “Special” based on a Hassad case – perhaps an experiment?!?

        Cheers,

        Adrian

      2. Tony, that engine is undoubtedly a “special” based upon a pre-WW2 Hassad 60 case. It’s a rear drum valve conversion of an engine that was originally crankshaft front rotary valve. It was originally a spark ignition unit, but has been operated on glow-plug and has lost its timer. The head is clearly tapped for a 3/8-24 spark plug, but a standard 1/4-32 glow-plug has been installed using an adapter. No way of knowing who made it, but there is a possibility that it was one of Ira Hassad’s experiments.

        Hope this helps!

        Cheers,

        Adrian

  54. Thanks for the information!!
    Because I can’t get it going and I’m sure there are other who can and would love it I’m probably putting it on eBay. Not sure if you frown on advertising on the blog but I could add a link once I post it.

      1. Hope that you are on the way to recovering. Your monthly output is much missed. Have a happy Christmas & best wishes for the New Year.
        Best Regards, Peter Gain.

  55. Hi Adrian, I’m writing from New South Wales on behalf of my sister. We recently read your article in the March 2022 edition about Elfin 149 PB Replicas as a link to information about Ivor F. We are trying to get in tough with Ivor’s son, Tahn Stowe, as my sister has a manuscript written by Ivor which she re-discovered when clearing out her study. This is a roundabout way of asking if you are able to ask Tahn to get in touch with us via my email address. Many thanks.

    1. Elaine, I’ve forwarded your request to Tahn Stowe. I assume that he will contact you directly.

      Thanks for your interest!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  56. Attachment

    Hi Adrian,

    By the way, I´m from Sweden (Oct. 1947 😉
    Red with great interest your WAF1 review and the reason is that the WAF1 was my second engine back in 1959-60. My first engine (can´t find one) was a Aqulia Baby VT-8 gold.

    After years of seeking I was lucky to find two very fine engines in germany with following serial no´s : 5280 and 6641 (encl. pictures) Could read that you asked for information if there was an WAF1 with Sno. higher than your with 6122 so, I have one.

    Encl. pictures

    Best regards

    Stefan

  57. Hello Duncan,
    Very sorry to learn that you have been in hospital, pleased that you are on the mend.
    Best wishes for a speedy & full recovery. Your December edition is much missed.
    Best regards, Peter Gain.

  58. Loved your article about the infamous Deezil! I was one of the many suckers who purchased one, albeit I was an innocent kid. I was born Feb1937, and the one I bought was the $2.95 kit engine, so according to your history I would have been about 12 or 13 years old. The only diesel fuel available to us was commercial Drone diesel fuel. I tried that and the engine would not even pop when cranked and primed. A wonderful adult neighbor heard about my exploits and noted that the instructions I received recommended SAE 70 oil and ether. None of the local gas stations had 70 weight oil, but he was aware he could get it at a motorcycle shop, and he bought me some. Without having a clue as to what I was doing I mixed some of the 70 oil with the Drone fuel. I found that by putting an eye dropper of 70 oil in the exhaust opening and priming with the modified Drone fuel, the engine would “pop” and sometimes run out the prime for maybe a one or two second run. My best friend and I bought via mail order a class A control line trainer called the “Baby Cinch”, the adds said: “A cinch to build and a cinch to fly”. Wrong on both counts: it had a built up wing with cap strips on the ribs, etc. My buddy bought a Bantam 19 from his older brother, which his brother converted from ignition to glow plug. His brother flew it for him and taught him to fly (eventually). I never flew mine with the Deezil. My buddie’s brother advised me to cut down the wingspan noting the Deezil Displacement was under .19, the minimum sized engine recommended. My buddy and I both had paper routes that paid us $5.00 a week, so my next engine was an Ohlson 23 front RV, in kit form as I recall, that saved me a few bucks, and I had already assembled the Deezil. My Deezil was so poor that the crankcase had imperfections from casting (holes) in it that I filled with Plastic Wood. From my Ohlson, I went to Forster 29, rear sloped intake and ringed piston, which was only a fair CL engine, in my opinion, and finally I was introduced by older fliers at an out of town flying field to the crude looking Sand cast Fox 35. It introduced us to the “4~2~4” break, continuous loops and inverted flying. I grew up with Ringmaster and Fox 35; my most difficult build was a Chief with tadpole ribs and Fox 35. The Deezil started all this.
    Best regards, I just found your site.
    Dave Gurtcheff
    Beach Haven, NJ, USA

  59. G’day Adrian…I’ve converted a Super Tigre 90 to diesel for a Super 60 plane enlarged to 96 inches, I guess it will be a Super 90. In these Balsa challenged times, it will be balsaless and appear in AeroModeller as a build story. Another of mine is slated to appear in the March edition. Problem is getting the ST90 to run reliably. Can you suggest a brew for the biggish diesel engine? Rgds John (Brisbane)

  60. G’Day Adrian,

    Just a quick line to mention I met Col Maybury of Mudjimba QLD Australia today. He spoke highly of You (He’s looking after a troublesome Evolution Glow Engine I’ve acquired (Getting into IC Flying, I’ve been Electric to date).

    Have passed You Site details on to fellow Flyers in The Sunshine Coast QLD Australia area. Thanks for the advice on my Enya Diesel last year.

    Regards,

    RW

    1. Thanks for this, Russell! Nice to hear from someone moving from the Dark Side back to I/C!!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

      1. Dear Adrian,

        Sorry to see that you have been unwell, anyway as we say in Australia old dog for a hard road. Thinking of you and offering my best wishes and prayers for your safe recovery. Have commenced running in a new ABC glow engine and steel iron piston diesel as per your recommendations. Have also made contact with Col maybury here on the Sunshine Coast Australia who also sends best wishes.

        1. Many thanks for your kind wishes, Russell, and the same to Col! Glad to hear that the running-in articles are proving to be helpful!

          Cheers,

          Adrian

  61. Hi Guys
    Not sure if this is the place to ask but here goes anyways
    I have recently purchased a Frog 249 marine engine and Im in need of the head bolts.
    Currently have 3 but need four. Current ones are philips head are these period correct and where would I purchase some??

    1. The FROG 249 originally used 6BA slot-head screws. The fact that your engine has Phillips head screws confirms that they’re not original. You should check to see if the holes in the case have been re-tapped to a different thread. Slot-head 6BA screws are very likely obtainable by mail order from Reeves 2000 at:

      https://www.ajreeves.com/

      You’ll have to specify the required length. Of course, if the thread has been altered you’ll have to go with whatever fits!

      Hope this helps!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  62. Adrian…

    Here’s hoping all goes well.

    Some time ago, you mused about efforts and results. Just to let you know, I do read your editorials and engine reviews. To the point of, some of my recent engine acquisitions were encouraged by those reviews…as in, ‘this engine sounds like a good idea’.
    You’ve been a good help.

    Is mise le meas,

    Marc

    1. Thanks for your good wishes, Marc! Glad that the articles have been of assistance to you!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  63. Greetings… I’m new to the world of model airplane engines and was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for removing the fuzz… oxide from magnesium without causing any damage.

    This may be the proverbial dumb question, but is there a source for establishing the value of engines ( other than eBay)? Say I wanted to sell a ED Mk II diesel. Used, but looks almost new and still in the box. I’m guessing it’s from the 1940’s. It’s stuck, which at this point, I assume the lubricant is petrified.
    This leads to the next question. What’s the best solvent for unsticking engines. I tried MEK and it worked, but wondering if there is something better. Also thinking I could remove what can be safely removed and use MEK with the engine in a small vacuum tank. Suck out a little pressure, and then release the vacuum to force the MEK into wherever it needs to go. Seems logical to me as long as I don’t set myself ablaze, it should work ok?

    1. The best and perhaps the only price guide is to watch eBay for a while to see what other examples of your engine are selling for. Values can change quite rapidly with changing economic conditions as well as the time of year.

      Unsticking engines – I use a mixture of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and acetone. A heat gun to warm things up often works wonders as well

      Good luck!

      Adrian

      1. Now if I could just find a new in the box Rivers Silver Arrow for comparison purposes. Any idea what it’s worth. I hate to ask, but can’t find anything comparable at all.

    2. Diesel engines are generally lubricated with caster oil, this turns to goo over time. I generally use a heat gun to blow hot air over the engine. handle with care as they get very hot! After a while of heating and gentle pressure turning over the crank shaft they will generally ease up. Popping a little light oil down the inlet and exhaust ports will also help. Don’t force the engine over TDC, if it has oil in it there won’t be enough room for the piston and you could bend something!
      I use HG “Oven, Grill and BBQ cleaner” to remove the goo from the outside of an engine (inside as well if required and you can strip it down). Spray it on, let it soak and agitate with a toothbrush, then wash off with water. Best to use gloves as it is a strong cleaner!

  64. Hi,
    I tried to post yesterday, but the message disappeared.
    Today I tried to post a photo of my Airstar, but no luck.
    Any ideas?
    Ken

    1. No idea – others have been positing successfully. It should work for you. Perhaps the problem is that your image size is too large – the system won’t accept hi-res images.

      Hope you can sort this!

      Adrian

  65. I’ve attempted to sort it out. I used an app to reduce the file size well below 2mb, but I still get the image too large message. I’m definitely digitally challenged, so will ask junior next time he stops by.

    Have you ever heard of a Green RSV 60? It’s a weird looking thing. I haven’t even figured out if it’s 2 or 4 stroke. There is a strange looking lump protruding from the front just above the crank, but no indication ( from the head and cylinder) that it is anything other than a 2 stroke. The lump looks like it is housing a gear reduction, but whatever it is reducing is internal. It’s new, never been run as far as I know.

    1. Attachment

      As far as I’m aware, the Green RSV 60 was a sleeve valve engine made in the early 1990’s by Chris Bradford of Marlborough, Wiltshire, England. I believe that parts for some 30 engines were made.

      1. Adrian, Much appreciated. I tried searching his name, but came up empty. It looks like the innards are pretty interesting. Did you find that photo on the interwebs? I’d like to get a higher rez copy so I can try and understand what is going on inside there.

  66. Attachment

    Hi!
    I’ve recently aquired a very battered KYOWA 45 engine. Ser No 2334.
    Unfortunately the carb has been replaced by one from SC, the prop driver no longer grips the crankshaft and currently the crankshaft moves forward and backwards, but the piston appears to be jamed solid 🙁

  67. Case in point about following your editorials…a lightly-used Ueda 15 just arrived in the mailbox today. Identical to the second version in your Ueda article, it will receive the tempering and light clean-up grinding of the crank. I also like flying odd engines, so will be careful with it when I finally get around to a suitable airframe. I imagine 20% all-castor fuel with 5-10% nitromethane, and propellers similar to an Enya .15 III should work.

    Thank you for keeping your site going!

    Marc

  68. Forgot to mention, the number 1806 is stamped on the outside edge of the left engine mounting. Hopefully, that’s a serial number and not date of manufacture.

    Marc

  69. Hi Adrian, I hope you have a speedy recovery.
    I have read your article on early Frog 100 engines and note your observations about early serial numbers. Your earliest known being 1100.
    I have #1004!
    Let me know if you’d like a photo.
    James Morgan

    1. Many thanks for this, James! Consistent with my theory that the sequence started at 1000. I’ve added your number to the article.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  70. Hello Adrian

    Hope your recovery is going well.
    I was just enjoying reading your article on the Frog 1.5 models. I recently acquired an unused boxed Frog 100MK111. It is a late example no H10389. The receipt along with the guarantee is dated February 1973. It has however the earlier serrated brass Frog type needle valve rather than the DC plain aluminium one. I can only surmise that during the run out of the Frog engines, DC must have found a stash of the earlier needles and used them up!
    Best wishes

    1. Thanks for this, Bob! I’ve added this info to the article. Every little bit helps!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  71. I was reading through the Rivers Arrow information. I didn’t think much about the stickers on the box until I saw the bit about the Arrow 19. New in the original box complete with decals.
    Thanks for posting that information. Your site has been a big help!

  72. Adrian,
    Hope things are going ok with you.
    I have a Rivers Arrow 19 engine number that you might be interested in.
    Do you still have any Nordec parts available?
    Thanks,
    Ken

    1. Thanks, mate! I’ll keep plugging away, and hopefully things will resolve themselves.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  73. Adrian,

    On you page you have a section about Ron Chernich:
    https://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/product.php?cat_id=40&pid=337
    The links on that site no longer work, as it seems that Ron’s page has been closed?
    https://modelenginenews.org/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi
    I did manage to find it alive here and not sure who is hosting this now?
    https://modelenginenews.altervista.org/index.html

    Im wondering if your links can either be updated to this working one? Or perhaps host his material in full somehwhere on your site? Its full of good info and would be a shame for it to disappear forever.

    Ive contacted a local plane club in Brisbane to see if they do the same. Im yet to receive a reply to my email from yesterday.

  74. Well done Adrian. Despite your medical problems you have provided us with yet another most interesting monthly report. Thank you. Peter Gain, in UK.

  75. Dear Mr. Duncan,
    I have just reading your article on Canadian aero engines specifically the Strato line . I have a Strato Super 60 which was given to me by my uncle Randall Bainbridge when i was a teenager. When he handed it me I asked him where he got it. He told me he had built it and being a typical know-it-all teenager i thought to myself “yeah right!” (LOL). .It wasn’t till many years later that I found out he wasn’t kidding!
    I can give you a little more information about him concerning his life during wartime. In 1942 he developed tuberculosis and spent a year in the T.B. sanitorium in Montreal where he had a lung removed. Later when he was able to work again he returned to his occupation as a brick layer as was his father before him.
    I hope this info has been helpful.

    1. Many thanks for this, Robert! I’ve added your information to my Strato article.

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  76. Attachment

    Adrian. I’m a relatively new visitor to your site and wish you good luck with your current health condition. I’m currently helping the widow of a fellow model aircraft club member dispose of some of his collection. As part of this she handed me a plastic bag which she said was destined for the tip. So far I have identified 2 frog 500’s sns. 23380 and 24504 one part modified to sparkie but both with tanks, a frog 100 sn. 25613 with a broken con rod, but appears to be complete apart from that. Then I got into the difficult to identify stuff, one is a Owat sn. D188 with no tank and a damaged needle and then tucked in the corner of the bag was an elfin 50 no sn. with tank but no needle. It just goes to show what is still out there!
    Good Luck

    1. You’re absolutely right, George! It really is amazing what’s still lurking out there after all these years! Well done on coming up with some really nice finds!

      Cheers,

      Adrian

  77. Hello Adrian, good to meet you!

    Only yesterday I was going through my garage clearing stuff for a trip to our recycling tip at Chichester UK as I am moving house. I came across my Rivers Silver Arrow engine. Stored unused since 1960 ish after a broken crank shaft in mid loop of my control line, supposedly, aerobatic kit model crashed! The engine didn’t like me! I pulled it out of the wreckage sent it to the address on the box and got it back a few days later repaired without an invoice for it!

    That turned out, at eighteen years old to be the end of my control line career after some 8 or 9 years. Work, young ladies, trying to keep my ancient Lambretta scooter road worthy caused a lack of time to (ever) build a model aircraft again. How did it all start?

    My closest friend was Dave Cooksey. He and I lived in Weybridge Surrey. There was a great model shop in the High Street. Eddie Rogers was the name above the door. He was the source of Keil Kraft rubber powered kits. I started with the Hurricane and Dave with the Spitfire! We became hooked on the latter. I purchased plans from Aeromodeller and built one and put my ED Hornet in the front. Dave did the same but put his Ballard Atom in his model. Mine looked ghastly, but it flew for a while. His looked like a scale model should look. His didn’t fly because we could never start the engine.

    He liked the idea of multi engined scale models and somehow acquired an ED 2.46 Racer (Red top). We were going to make together a scale C/L model of a Miles Gemini-but that never emerged for reasons I cannot remember 67 years ago! Nothing daunted the following year we got plans for a four engined scale model Vickers Viscount – about 5 foot wing span. It got built we bought a pair of 75 foot Lay Straight wires to tether it to the control handle. We tried numerous times to get four engines running at the same time. Came a cold Saturday December morning off to a remote football ground beside the river Thames at Weybridge the ground was soggy mud with a breezy cross wind.

    We got all four of the Racers (one of them my Green top that was a stinker to start!) running, Dave had the handle it started to move on the ground, nose up, two engines died. Try again, got them all started, my turn at the handle. Off the ground about ten circuits one engine ran out fuel after another I managed to nurse it on to the ground and the last engine died. Try again? Yes Dave on the handle all four running, off the ground it climbed quite well at about twenty feet caught the cross wind, oh dear you can guess the rest. We did an autopsy on what happened.

    Obvious the cross wind caught the beast to flip wing up and into the ground. We also looked several yards away where I had been standing and flying. In line with that wind coming across were several trenches where I had been pulled across on my heels when the wind had pushed it away from me. Dave had another four engined model in mind and this time he did it alone and I lent him my two ED Racers, bought the Rivers Silver Arrow and went back to trying aerobatic control line flying.

    That Silver Arrow is in front of me now, Serial B338. Never used again! But in later years my other school years obsession with Dave – The Spitfire aircraft – took a hold on me. I had a lot of pleasure with that. I have had contact with a lady I still correspond with by email. She’s also a Spitfire nut! Flew in one 2010 a few weeks before I managed to do the same thing. She lives near Vancouver BC in a town whose name is something to do with Salmon Jumping. Could that be Coquitlam? Cheers Dave LLoyd

    PS. In later years I was a Buyer for an engineering company near the old ED works in Molesey. We had a snag with something we had subcontracted to a precision engineering firm in Surbiton with a superb reputation. That turned out to be Ken Day and he showed us his separate small production workshop for ED engines! Yet another coincidence? Dave Cooksey? Today that fellow octogenarian rebuilds and races beautiful MG cars dating from 1927 to around 1935!

    1. Great story, David! Would you object to me adding it to my “Readers’ Recollections” page?

      Cheers,

      Adrian

      1. Not at all, please go ahead. Good luck with your ongoing big C treatment I’m in recession from 2021. It can gome out OK after all!

        AS to my B338 having looked and read more last evening. I note there is a brass slotted screw in the back plate and this engine has the domed spinner nut to to hold the prop on. Its very scruffy box does not say Mk1 either. The crank case seems to be an exceptionally rough surface unlike your A series example

        Cheers David LL

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